When you arrive early to the venue: too early: early on a short haul from Somewhere to Somewhere Else: when last night is still lying in the street: the surly doormen still sleeping: somewhere: somewhere across town: someplace: and the deep fat fryers are asleep, too: lard and scum solidified deep in their battered buckets: in layers: blanketed layers: like little piggies: suffering only the faint smell of truck stop perfume: still haunting the stairwell: where the ghosts of darkness linger: waiting for a scowling man with a mop to push them back for a few more hours: and then: turn on the greasy fans: to rumble and splay.
You can park out front: half sleep in the front seat for a couple of hours: until the sun spoils the moment: until the flies skinwalk: until the beggars press up against the windows: looking for brown money or cigarettes. Load in. Sound check. Unplug the giant subwoofers. One stage light works: its nicotine yellow wash setting the mood for the corner stage: for glints on a brass pole from the better days: for the dank, patterned floor swaying underfoot. And now: just the mic stands dance: like they don’t care: like “Jazz me, Charlie, and I’ll pay you back at the end of my shift.” I’m pretty sure she was about eighteen, and just getting into coke, when I first played here. But I gave it all to the Spiderman pinball machine, and we never exchanged a word.
Just above the urinals, if you are a man: standing: looking up, not down: or half-sideways: looking up: you might see pictures of popular or legendary out of town artists: taped to the wall: above the piss and the puke. On summer days the cleaner would pour ice into the urinals: cold piss was thought to smell better than hot piss. The things men thought about: standing: pissing: looking at my picture: and pissing again. When the venue sold a lot of beer, you might get famous: you might get booked into a bigger room in another town Somewhere: somewhere down the road: a place where they might actually put up an 8 x 10 black and white glossy in the bar window: and the waitresses would be prettier. It’s all about branding, somebody once told me: branding and beer: and urinals are often at the cold heart of the business. In Chinatown, I’ve heard that both upstairs and downstairs urinals are unlucky. It depends who you talk to.
In Ireland, the set runs two hours: straight. In Africa: usually two sets on a three hour call– maybe more in Limpopo and Mpumalanga. An early start: an early finish: young people crowding in at the end: the dj: sitting with his gear: waiting for my exit: waiting to plug in the broken subwoofers: waiting for their own moment in the ring. In the Americas, we would play three or even four, forty-five minute sets– usually over six nights and a matinee. Union gigs, with contracts. Some of the venues had the set start and finish times painted onto the walls next to the stages. Here: it’s a cold crowd drinking: brandy and coke: on special: doubles until eight: and I’ve finally learned how to put ice cubes in my wine: and when to start and stop.
The good thing about not working with Live Nation or Ticket Master is that I usually get paid in cash at the end of it all. Where there are bandits, it’s a bit different, as there is no real money exchanged: so everybody else angles for a piece of the pie. But when it works, it’s like visiting the Wizard of Oz: next door to the repro man and the pawn shop. Portuguese math. The shell game. Sometimes I have to wait while the munchkin money gets counted and the numbers tallied: but at the end of the night: bank notes of whatever currency: counted into my hand: no third and fourth parties taking a spread: just the House and Me: just blue Mandelas: dealt out onto another debris strewn desk by some stressed looking guy in sweat pants. He has my bar tab, and is careful to miss nothing. The money flows through his greasy fingers and into mine: deftly: like some magic trick: and really it is: life on the Blues Highway.
Blues magic: On stage: the artist: sawn in half nightly: to the amazement of anyone who doesn’t know how it’s done: and the blood and the bruises and the disappointments and the dreams and the best songs you have ever written: and the best stories: turned into little tokens: little magic tokens which will carry everything to the next town: to the next Somewhere venue: to Somewhere too early, or too late: Somewhere you should have been ten years ago: but not in December: Somewhere: where you might get famous next to the roar of a kitchen fan, or next to the whir of some kid tilting a Spiderman pinball machine.
The Tour soon moves on to Ireland, Northern Ireland, England and Scotland. Busy now now routing and filling the remaining summer and autumn dates...

















